Jewellery collection
Eloise Kannemeyer
Diocesan School for Girls
Year 11 Technology
Teacher: Gabrielle Ashton
A home burglary provided an authentic issue for Eloise – she proposed to develop a range of jewellery for her mother, whose jewellery had been stolen. Eloise investigated the types of materials she could use, and consulted her mother about which she liked and her preferences in jewellery. Eloise sketched her ideas for her client, and they decided that the range would include a silver necklace and bracelet, and a cross pendant and ring made of glass.
Eloise had some experience working in glass having made a glass tangram puzzle. For this project, she added to this knowledge by researching glass and contemporary glass jewellery, as well as silver and its use in decoration.
To fully understand the properties of glass, Eloise conducted various trials in which she:
- experimented with firing glasses that had different COEs (coefficient of expansion ) and concluded that for maximum strength and durability she should use glass with the same COE;
- fired pieces of glass together to test how well they retained colour, how well they combined into the required shape, and to establish their devitrification properties, and the correct firing schedule ; and
- tried methods of changing the shape of the glass through 'slumping' it into moulds.
She then made a sample ring using some of these techniques.
Eloise researched different jewellery clasps and considered suitable methods for connecting a chain to glass jewellery. She then trialled:
- sealing silver wire between two layers of glass;
- drilling holes in the fired glass where a chain could go;
- cutting her glass to create a square hole; and
- creating a chain channel using heat-resistant strips of fibre web.
Eloise analysed the results to decide which methods to use in her development. Some decisions were easy – she had found that silver wire sealed in glass turns green so didn't opt for that technique!
Eloise showed her concept sketches for the cross to her client and asked about her preferences regarding shape, size and colour. She modelled the final design of five glass squares in a diagram and then, using recycled glass, began construction. Her mother was pleased with the finished product and commented on its versatility, saying that it was suitable for casual or formal wear.
When she started developing the jump ring bracelet, Eloise sketched some ideas for her client, who chose the Byzantine pattern. Eloise consulted her about size, wire, length and clasp. As she worked on the bracelet, Eloise decided to use a smaller wire – to make the bracelet lighter so that it didn't look chunky on her client's small wrists. Her mother reports that when wearing the bracelet she has had positive comments about how good it looks.
The necklace was designed to complement the bracelet and to be worn as a three-piece item or as three individual looks. Eloise had discussed her research of modern jewellery with her client, who liked the fashion of multiple pieces on one chain and selected her favourites from the concept sketches Eloise showed her. After researching construction methods, Eloise began working on the three pieces which would hang from the chain. She constructed a segment of Byzantine chain to match the bracelet, made a blue glass bead using the process of lampwork , and used Art Clay Silver to make the silver-leaf, painting 12 layers of the paste onto a leaf which was fired and then rubbed to bring out the silver.
The last piece in the collection, the ring, chosen by her client from the concept sketches and made of glass, was constructed during a school workshop run by silversmith Brian Adam. Eloise is pleased with the glass cabochon
ring, which she encased in silver, and says that although it ended up bigger than she would have liked it does work well as a 'statement' piece – working within the time constrains of a workshop had meant she wasn't able to remake it.
Teacher comment
Eloise's practice was carried out to a high standard. Her client issue was clearly outlined from the beginning and the stakeholder's need was totally authentic – valid and informative communication with her client continued throughout the project. Eloise's planning was used to guide her practice and she was good at pre-empting any challenges or problems. The extensive trialling and testing she carried out had a huge impact on informing her practice.
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