Dress with Japanese theme
Jessica O'Sullivan
Carmel College
Year 13 Materials Technology
Teacher: Daphne Vogel
Jessica wanted to work with an established New Zealand fashion designer and, with the attitude of "Why not?", asked Hong Kong-based Yvonne Bennetti to be her client. To her surprise, Yvonne said "Yes", and asked her to design a kimono with a Japanese influenced print. Jessica says she later appreciated that the brief did not contain any other detail as it gave her the opportunity to consider various concepts before designing her final solution, a dress that hints at the Japanese theme.
Jessica started with research; she wanted to have a thorough understanding of her client's style and target market, and of the kimono, historically, in Japan, and as a 21st century garment in New Zealand. "Having a better understanding of something, especially in design, opens up a lot more creative possibilities".
Jessica was working within a tight budget and realised early on that she could not afford the very expensive fabrics Yvonne tends to use. She decided to make the dress from a cheaper material and enhance it by making a hand painted and beaded cherry blossom waistband.
Jessica initially planned to alter an existing pattern to achieve the dress she wanted but, after making up her first toile (sample garment made from muslin or calico), she realised extensive alteration was required and that the straight skirt, if made in silk, would be restricting.
She started to change those features she hadn't liked, through altering the pattern and cutting or manipulating the fabric, on her second toile. However this proved quite frustrating and time had become a critical factor, so she took advantage of the class visit made by a professional pattern maker, to work with him and have a pattern drafted.
One of the hardest aspects of working with a busy, overseas client was communication. She had to email (or send a DVD showing her designs) and wasn't able to get the direct responses she needed to continue at each stage, which meant timing became a problem.
Jessica says she was pushed, technically, in making the dress and had to learn many new techniques, such as under stitching, constructing a princess seam and easing a seam in while sewing. She particularly enjoyed creating the waistband, and is pleased with how it worked with the dress for the overall look her client wanted.
Jessica received a 2006 New Zealand Scholarship Award for her work.
Teacher comment Jessica was an independent worker and was able to problem solve effectively with great results. Yvonne Bennetti thought the dress was beautiful 
and was pleased with her efforts, and has agreed to act as client for another student in 2007. I asked Jessica to visit at the beginning of 2007, when she spent the lesson discussing her project with the Year 13 students. The students asked a lot of questions – it was good to hear from their peer rather than the teacher for a change!
