Andrea Moore Design
The Production Process
Pattern making (click to enlarge)
Laying up prior to cutting sample (click to enlarge)
Marking/Cutting sample
A quality check
COP Planning for practice The design ideas progress through a production process that begins in the design workroom of Andrea Moore Design in Wellington. There are five people working in the workroom; Andrea herself, Catherine McElwain the Production Manager , Nikki Hann the Assistant Designer/Patternmaker , a sample cutter (who also assists with patternmaking), and a sample machinist.
Design – > Patternmaking – > Sample Range – > Grading – > Marker Making – > Quality Check – > Cutting Garments – > Construct one Garment – > Quality Check Sample Garment – > Complete Construction Run – > Quality Check – > Distribution For Sale
Design – > Patternmaking – > Sample Range
The ideas/sketches, which will form the range, begin with the design assistant/patternmaker developing a “master pattern" for each original design idea. The technical execution of the 2D pattern made in either newsprint or kraft paper. It is then cut out, constructed in calico, forming a 3D structure, and fitted often on a dressform before being put onto a live model with standard size measurements. Sample garments are normally cut in a Size 10 or 12.
COP Outcome development and evaluation
Where necessary, alterations are made to the calico and then transferred to the master pattern. A second calico may be required before the Production Manager and design team are satisfied with the overall proportion, line, and fit of the design.
Sample lengths of fabrics are then used for making up the sample ranges. There are approximately 20 garments in each range and three sample ranges are constructed – one for selling, one for production, and one for media promotion. Andrea then travels to established retail outlets throughout the country to sell the range. From the orders around the country and the projection of sales from the two retail outlets the bulk fabric orders are placed with the suppliers' agents.
Grading – > Marker Making
Meanwhile the Production Manager sends the “master patterns" to Andrea Moore Design's contracted grader/s where the patterns are graded and the markers are made. Grading produces a range of patterns of different sizes, and a marker is the most efficient layout of how the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. All these functions take place out of Wellington either in Auckland and/or Christchurch. There are various companies contracted to complete different operations.
In some factories there are computer-aided grading and marker making systems. With the assistance of an operator/s, these systems grade the patterns, a process where the paper/kraft pattern pieces are digitised into the computer by tracking a series of points from the pattern pieces. These points then relate to the grading programme within the computer and then electronically, the pattern pieces for each design are graded and the fabric marker is developed. Some machines, once the fabric is laid up (layers of fabric dependent on number of garments required) are also programmed to cut the fabric operated by a laser beam. If there is not computer-aided design system all these technological procedures are executed manually. Fashion design programmes teach both manual and computer-aided methods of technological practice.
COP Outcome development and evaluation
Quality Check
Once the patterns are graded and the markers have been produced, the markers are all sent back and checked by the Production Manager before being sent for cutting and construction/making.
Cutting Garments – > Construct one Garment – > Quality Check Sample Garment
The bulk quantities of fabrics are delivered and measured off at the cutting establishment/s. Often the cutting of the garments and the construction of the garments are carried out by different CMT contractors. Once the first garment comes off the line it is sent to the Production Manager for checking.
Complete Construction Run
Before the bulk production run is carried out each sample garment is put through a quality check, after which it is sent back to the factory with alterations/changes to be made before the bulk of the garments are constructed.
COP Outcome development and evaluation
Quality Check
Once all the garments are finished each one is quality checked.
Distribution for Sale
Finally the garments are sent out to wholesalers/retailers and placed in Andrea Moore Design's two stores. Jenny Couch is the Store Manager in Wellington and is responsible for the day-to-day running of the Andrea Moore store in the Old Bank Arcade, Wellington.
