Delivery
Students dyeing material in the classroom (click to enlarge)
Weeks 1 - 5: The class began with a theme of 'Buy Kiwi Made' and was asked to consider the statement: "The New Zealand clothing industry is being flooded with cheap mass-produced clothing. Creating our own unique cloth and turning this into garments with simple construction may provide us with an opportunity to compete."
This year dyeing was introduced to the unit with students donning gloves, aprons, masks and safety goggles to mix up their dyes. A corner of the workroom with three deep sinks was made the dyeing area and drying racks hung overhead.
In these lessons students classified fibres and identified fabrics that contained cellulose or protein fibres. They also covered the different types of dyes and their suitability for dyeing various fabrics.
Wendy had organised teacher Merrilyn George to run a Year 9 workshop on dyeing the previous year. Wendy found this a valuable way for a large class of students to learn how to dye safely, and used this experience to introduce dyeing in her work with Year 12. She taught the girls how to dye, including experimenting with microwave dyeing using acid based dyes. They also dyed bleached possum fur, both loose and on the skin.
Having learnt the basic skills of dyeing, the class went on to use different techniques with an emphasis on Japanese shibori (resist ) dyeing. Students were expected to be able to identify and use various shibori styles.
Wendy had made contact with Columbine Industries and from her visit and photographs was able to discuss the characteristics of industrial dyeing, so that the class could see how large-scale production differed from the small amounts they were making up.
Weeks 6 - 10: The class then started looking at producing their own material. They brainstormed various possibilities, and discussed an article they had read on the way forward for New Zealand textiles. Wendy had a conference with each student to ensure the issue would allow them access to excellence. They then had to do initial research and revise use of the research model - this meant sourcing and developing research questions, identifying sources for information including texts and relevant internet sites plus any expert help they might access.
Sue Boot, of Basically Bush, came to the school to speak to the girls about the possum fur industry and the company's work. They learnt about some of the current uses of possum fur and skin and the companies associated with this.
Wendy took the class to observe the buying process at Basically Bush where Sue discussed the company's requirements for purchasing fur and skins, plus the properties of possum fur and the limitations this place on its use.
The use of natural, rather than dyed, fur showed the girls the sophisticated effects they could get from natural colours, something they hadn't realised before
Members of the local spinners and weavers group taught the class felting techniques and students were required to produce a sample of flat felting . This was an opportunity to experiment with mixing materials during felting , with some students producing material incorporating polwarth wool, possum fur and silk.
After practicing the basic technique the girls learnt to insert pockets, frills, knitted pieces and prefelts into their felted product. Members of the spinners and weavers group taught the class how to produce finer materials through nuno felting .
Wendy had wanted to give the class the opportunity to learn a wide range of skills but knew there wouldn't be time to do everything. At this stage she decided to introduce peer teaching. The class was divided into five pairs, given a craft to learn and provided with materials, containers and publications. They had to read about the craft and research how to do the various techniques. Under her guidance they had to learn how to make their product and then teach it to the rest of the class.
Sue talking to the class
Weeks 6 - 10 continued: The pair doing fabric fusion had to be able to identify a range of materials which could be fused. They then worked on using free motion machine embroidery; this technique being an art form where the fabric is moved around while stitching, using the needle to 'draw' the diagram.
Once familiar with this embroidery the students moved on to dissolvable fabric. Here they were able to use their free motion embroidery skills and insert other pieces of fabric to fuse into their new material.
Another group worked on teaching the class weaving. They learnt to set up the Ashford knitters loom and were able to weave fabric, using a variety of wools and possum fur.
The button workshop involved the 'experts' showing how a variety of buttons could be created using fimo clay. A selection of button moulds and cutters was available for shaping. When completed the buttons were placed on a tile and baked in the oven.
One pair had been given the task of finding out who provided carded wool. The girls had to contact various wool suppliers and find out what was available, what breeds of sheep were being used and the cost. This resulted in some wonderful feedback from Shona Schofield Carding of Ashburton, which cards possum fur. On request she carded possum fur into a variety of mixes, including merino, polwarth and silk for the class.
Three-dimensional felting was taught by the student experts as well. This is a technique where the material can be moulded during the felt-making process into three-dimensional forms. This can be used to create a range of things such as hats, bags or toys.
The culmination of learning these techniques was for students to produce an individual item of material. They did have to include some of the techniques they had worked on or learnt about.
Week 11 - 15: The Biotechnology Learning Hub was used as a resource to show other aspects of the possum industry, such as biological control of possums. The class discussed information on the site, such as the use of genetically modified parasites to control possum fertility, and had to consider different stakeholder (Basically Bush, Department of Conservation, District Council, Woolly Yarns, hunters, animal rights groups and Royal Forest and Bird Society) views on this method of controlling the possum population.
Colour is a major consideration in the various textiles skills that the class works on and Wendy spent some time looking at the attributes of colour. The girls were expected to know the vocabulary of colour (hue, value, complimentary, analogous, etc) and to be able to analyse colour schemes. Colour Schemer software was a useful device to help students who might be struggling to identify colours, while those with a natural affinity for colour were able to work on other aspects, such as using colours from nature. All the class was then expected to apply their colour knowledge to their textile design.
During this period the class had to work on their brief development (as the client) and planning for their individual project, in which they would produce their own material and make it into a garment. Each student had to look at the key factors involved in production of their garment - fabric, fit, skill level, time and simplicity.
Anyone interested in using a technique they had seen in the peer teaching had the opportunity of picking this up and going back to the experts who had taught it.
